Tuesday, 25 October 2016

Wedding Attire in Episode 15

The wedding attire as seen in episode 15 is usually only worn by members of the royal family. There are different wedding attires worn by noble families. I won't go into detail because it could end up being very confusing.

So I will keep my focus on the particular wedding attire worn by Ha Yeon and Lee Yeong which is reserved by the royal bride and groom.

Ha Yeon is wearing the so-called hwarot, a traditional royal dress, worn during the wedding ceremony. It's a overcoat usually worn over many layers of clothes (jacket and skirt) underneath. The color scheme is blue and red – the colors of ying and yang. But the colors of the overcoat indicate the status of the bride. So a noble bride or a commoners bride will wear a wedding coat in different colors than a future queen like Ha Yeon. Also noble daughters and commoners weren't allowed or able to wear hwarot. They wore a wonsam instead (a overcoat).

The collar is adorned with the golden phoenix and the blue part is embroidered with birds and different ceremonial patterns. The black band over her shoulders is called wedding ribbon, with other attires it would be worn over the binyeo (hairpin) but the Crown Princess is wearing it over the shoulders. It's embroidered with golden clouds and phoenixes.

As a preparation for her status as a married woman Ha Yeon's hair is styled in jjeokjin meori. Meaning her hair goes up in a bun and is held by a binyeo (hairpin) in the back. The golden binyeo is also adorned with a phoenix. There are also many dwikkojis (hairpins) for the bun. On top of her head she is wearing the cheopji (hair ornament) only worn by brides.

Underneath the hwarot the bride is wearing special bride shoes, called flower shoes (ggossin). Those are covered in red and blue silk and embroidered with flowers.

The bridal look is completed with the daesu meori which is basically a type of wig OR a hat made of a wig, adorned with many different hairpins and ornaments. This type of headpiece is either worn for weddings or coronations. So get your seatbelts on, fellow Moonlighters, it's getting complicated.

The daesu meori is worn over Ha Yeon's hair and it's very heavy. In the back (what we can't see in the drama) the headpiece is adorned with a purple ribbon. The purple color indicates the status of getting married. The lower end of the wig is adorned with two phoenix binyeos (phoenix hairpins).

In the center of the headpiece we have a pearl ornament and on each side of it the dragon binyeo (dragon hairpin). Over it we can see the red and gold daenggi (hair ribbon) with many ornaments on it. Above we have two larger round ornaments and above that the butterfly ornament. On the top we have two phoenix dwikkojis (hairpins) and a keun binyeo (big hairpin). Also in the back 3 large binyeos. See pictures for names.

Now on to Lee Yeong. He is wearing a dark blue (inside is either red or purple) myeonbok, a traditional royal dress, adorned with the dragons on each shoulder (it's five-clawed), mountain on the back and trees on the sleeves. Underneath the overcoat he is wearing a white silk durumagi.

Over the myeonbok he is wearing a red sash, called daedae, and the another sash called pyesul with the mountain and fire motif embroidered on it. Those motifs are connected with ying and yang.

In the back he is wearing a sash, called husu, made of different types of fabrics. It's usually made of four different colors indicating the four directions/seasons. Over it he is wearing the belt and a pair of gorgeous pae (jade ornaments) attached to it.

In his hands he is holding kyu, a tessera made of white jade,

On his head he is wearing myeonrugwan, a type of head with many beads on it, only worn during weddings or coronations.

Costumes in Episode 13, 14 and 15

So as they weren't many new costumes in the episodes after episode 12 I will do the next three episodes in one post. The wedding attire will be an extra post.

In episode 13 Ra On asks Ha Yeon to take good care of Lee Yeong, that she is a fitting woman for him. We see Ha Yeon yet again looking like a flower with her green chima (skirt) and the pink jeogori (jacket) which i adorned with golden butterflies. Overall the hanbok is – despite the bright colors – very simple. Same goes for the jangot (a long overcoat used by noble ladies as a veil), she has draped over the arm.

Her hair is adorned with a cheopji (hair ornament on top of the head) looking like it's made of jade and dwikkojis (hairpins worn at the side of the head).

We also get a look at Princess Myeong-Eun's hanbok. I have a feeling her hanboks are little less mature than the ones for Ha Yeon. She always feels a bit younger. She is wearing a bright orange chima (skirt) and I love the jeogori (jacket) which is adorned with ornaments, flower embroidery. She as well has her hair adorned with cheopji and dwikkojis.

But my favourite shot is the one of her shoes... GOSH I LOVE HER SHOES! They're called unhye and they're made of silk and are usually embroidered with flowers and clouds (sorry for the blurry screenshot). The shoes are definitely modern because they have a heel.

With his family planning to find the daughter of Hong Gyeong-nae, Yoon Sung's attire changes from bright to more dark and settled. In the screenshot he is wearing a dark purple and with gold/silver flowers embroidered durumagi (overcoat). His gat (hat) is adorned with a black and simple gatkeun (chain of beads attached to the gat).

In episode 14 though when Yoon Sung saving Ra On from being caught we see him wearing a simple yet light blue silk durumagi. Yet it looks very clean I love the flower pattern on the silk:

When Ra On leaves the palace she also leaves behind her eunuch attire and her durumagis she wore on occasions outside the palace. She is now wearing commoner clothes made of cotton or linen, a plain baji (pants) and long jeogori (jacket). Her hair is more messy, also because she isn't wearing a manggeon (headband) anymore.

We also get another glance at Ha Yeon beautiful hair ornaments:

And another GORGEOUS durumagi (overcoat) worn by Yoon Sung. He is so extravagant! A true yangban. It's all in black and gold and the durumagi made of silk is embroidered with golden flowers.

And then we see Ha Yeon dressed in a high noble lady attire. She is wearing a red/orange chima (skirt) and a peach-colored long jeogori (jacket) with golden ornaments, showing her status as future Crown Princess. The front of the jeogori is adorned with a round ornament, simply indicating her high status now:

In the scene from episode 14 and episode 15 when Lee Yeong goes to see Ra On he is wearing a dark green/blue durumagi. I also love how you can see how many layers he is wearing. They really went for authentic when it comes to costumes. We also get a glimpse of his shoes, called taesahye.

Also a glimpse of the Minister of Justice – in red – and his minion – in blue and gold. Both are wearing jeongrip (a type of head) with beads. Colors of the uniform usually indicate the rank/status:

Then a scene which made all the Yoon Sung fans go cry and yell in happiness. He saved the little princess and brought her to the evil queen's mother who is wearing a gorgeous black chima and a bordeaux colored jeogori with flower patterns on it. She is wearing her hair in the style of a married woman, called jjeokjin meori. The hair is brought to the back in a bun, held with a binyeo (hairpin), and the bun is adorned with more hairpins (dwikkoji). But she isn't married but she is wearing the hair like that because she is a kisaeng and a woman who had sex is usually wearing her hair like that. Especially when she is older. She might be the mother of the kisaeng house?

Meanwhile Yoon Sung is wearing a beautiful light green durumagi with flower pattern on it and a white textured collar. The gatkeun on his gat is fitting the color scheme:

Costumes in Episode 11 and 12

In episode 11 we get another look Princess Myung-Eun's hanbok. She is wearing a long sleeved jeogori (jacket) and over it a pink sleeveless vest with a beautiful flower pattern embroidered on it. Her hair is adorned with the dwikkoji (hairpin) on the sider of her head and a cheopji (another name for a hairpin) on top of her head:

In a flashback we get to see young Lee Yeong in his classic Crown Prince attire and his mother in a hanbok worth a queen but if you compare it too the evil Queen's attire Lee Yeong's mother is very simple but yet beautiful. She is wearing a light pink jeogori (jacket) with golden ornaments on it and a black chima (skirt) with golden ornaments as well. And in her hair the phoenix cheopji (hairpin on top of the head), showing she is the Queen, and a golden phoenix binyeo (hairpin which holds together the bun in the back) and another hairpin adorning the bun. Overall a very simply look for a queen:

When Lee Yeong is going to see Dasan we also get a look at one of his outfits and those are always such a contrast to what Lee Yeong is wearing. While Dasan is wearing a cotton baji (pants) and a simple cotton jeogori (jacket) with long sleeves in brown, grey and green color, Lee Yeong sitting next to him is wearing another favourite outfit of mine: a durumagi (long overcoat) in a blue color with long sleeves and over it another durumagi but with short sleeves in a dark blue color. The collar is adorned with a flower pattern. He is also wearing a gat (hat) with a white gatkeun (the bead chain attached to the gat):

Then we get another extravagant costume for Yoon Sung. A durumagi in a dark shade of purple with flower patterns on it. Underneath he is wearing a long-sleeved silk durumagi in a off-white color. He, as well, is wearing a gat with a gatkeun made of light greenish and purple beads:

And now for another couple outfit I will go into for episode 12 but here we get a wonderful shot of Lee Yeong waiting for Dasan. He is wearing a mustard-colored long-sleeved durumagi and a purple durumagi over it. The belt of his costume is adorned with green beads. And he is weaing a gat with a silver gatkeun:

Interlude: For cinematography freaks like me

And a short sneakpeak of uri OTP wearing yet again couple outfits:

In episode 12 we get a look at two hanboks of Ra On's mother – both are very plain, yet I love them because I just adore the texture of those hanboks made of cotton or linen. Like Dasan the colors are very muted and earthy. Unlike the noble ladies she isn't wearing any hairpins apart from the binyeo, the hairpin which holds together the bun in the back:

So now for the couple costumes in episode 10 we already saw both, Lee Yeong and Ra On, wearing outfits in a blue color scheme when they were supposed to meet Dasan. It shows that after Ra On tried to be the one who is reasonable they're now completely committed to this love for eachother. And the outfits in episode 11 and 12 continues this pattern. While Lee Yeong is wearing the same costume as in episode 11 Ra On is wearing a durumagi in a lighter shade of purple. I just can't with these two dressing up like modern Korean couples do:

During the fight scene we see another very casual outfit for Lee Yeong. I think apart from his clothes for bed this is the plainest costume I've seen on him. Just something I imagined him to wear when he doesn't have any official meetings anymore:

Yoon Sung is probably wearing another favourite costume of mine for him. A silk durumagi in a dark shade of red with white flower patterns on it. Underneath he is wearing a silver/greyish colored undercoat

And in the next scene with Yoon Sung he is wearing a gorgeous silver casual durumagi:

And then of course something extra because how can I not post this shot of Ra On and Lee Yeong backhugging. Also: Lee Yeong is said bed attire.....

Sunday, 9 October 2016

Costumes in Episode 9 and 10

In episode 9 the students of the famous Sungkyunkwan Institute are protesting against Lee Yeong's decision to postpone the civil service exam. It's the first time we see the students in their formal attire. They're wearing plain white undergarments, pants and dongari. Over it they wear a long and sleeveless vest in blue color which held by a black and white belt. The outfit is completed with the hat called yugeon:

In this episode we also get to see several outfits of the Little Princess. She is usually always wearing a red or pink chima and over it several different types of jeogori. In the first picture she is wearing a blue jeogori with a pretty flower stitching on it. In the second picture the jeogori is yellow and has a tiny purple butterfly stitched on the collar. She is also wearing a sleeveless, long vest in a lighter blue shade in the 3rd image and it's worn over the jeogori. As you may have noticed the sleeves of her jeogoris are made of different colors stripes it's called saekdong or saekdongot. It's mostly worn by children because the playfullness of the the sleeves indicates innocence. Like the women she is also wearing tiny dwikkoji and cheopji in her hair:

We also have the pleasure to see Lady Suk-ui again, the mother of the Little Princess. Unlike the younger women in the palace she is wearing more muted color but still very pretty hanbok. The silver ornaments on the collar of her jeogori are indicating her status as a concubine. And even though it's hard to see she is also wearing a beautiful norigae on the ribbon of the jacket. The ornaments in her hair – the binyeo which holds together her jjeokjin meori in the back, the dwikkoji and the cheopji on top of her hat – are matching eachother in color:

Talking about beautiful dwikkoji – here the ones worn by Ha Yeon in this episode:

And we may not like him but Minister Kim is wearing a beautiful dark green sleeveless vest, jeonbok, over a plain white durumagi:

And Kim Hun is wearing a olive colored durumagi – I love the texture of the fabric, it looks down to earth in a way unlike Kim Hun actually is – with a jeongjagwan:

Meanwhile Lee Yeong looks almost youthful and just like the man in love he is with his light pink and light blue/greyish durugmagi. We also get a good look at his black and white shoes called taesahye – we also see them on Ra On and Yoon Sung. In the screenshot we also see Dasan who is wearing baji (pants) and a long jeogori in the colors dark green and brown. His shoes are black and called heukhye – those are also worn by Ra On inside the palace.

And then in the last scene we finally get to see Ra On in another hanbok. It's a very plain one made of better quality cotton I would say. Yet the light pink and purple color of the chima and the light yellow of the jeogori mirrors Lee Yeong's costume I just mentioned. She is wearing her hair back in another loose daengi. I didn't get a good screenshot of it but I wanted to show the shoes she is wearing. They're called danghye and are worn by women. They're usually made with silk and embroidered, just like the one Ra On's wearing:

In episode 10 for the first time we get to see Lee Yeong's undergarments or sleeping attire. I really love it be honest. And no I'm not a pervert I just adore the pleated part of the durumagi and it looks so soft. I don't know... I think I really love this costume:

And we get to see slimed-down Princess Myeong-Eun who is wearing a beautiful red chima with a golden bordure – showing her high status – and a jeogori and over it another sleeveless vest. She is still going strong wearing the rose cheopji on top of her head and decent dwikkoji:

Master Jung is wearing a dark green palace official attire called gwanbok with a rank badge in the front and back. On top of his head he is wearing a samo:

Yet another favourite combo of mine is Dasan and Lee Yeong meeting. For once they almost wear matching outfits. Dasan is wearing a very light mint colored durumagi made of cotton and a gat. Meanwhile Lee Yeong is wearing a light beige silky durugmagi with a flower pattern on it and a gat with fitting gatkeun, beads:

A highlight in this episode was Eunuch Han in his dark durugmagi with a golden cloud pattern on it. I love that his outfit fits his position in the White Cloud Organisation. He is also wearing a type of strawhat called satgat:

When Ra On and Lee Yeong want to meet eachother to see Dasan I noticed YET AGAIN they're wearing color-coordinated outfits. These two really. While Ra On is wearing a light blue durumagi with a gat and fitting gatkeun. Lee Yeong is wearing another favourite outfit, a light blue durumagi and over it another dark blue durumagi with short sleeves. He is also wearing a gat with silver/green gatkeun adorning it: